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Elbrus climb from the east with a chance of both summits

46
km
11
days
3/3
Difficulty
1/4
Comfort

About the Program

The route passes through the wild and stunning Irik Chat Gorge and the eastern slope of Elbrus, along the Achkeryakol lava flow and past Elbrus’s side crater. After reaching the summit, the group descends via the southern side using a snowcat and cable car, arriving at the hotel the same day after eight days of full autonomy. This is the same program we organized for Ryan Pyle’s TV show Extreme Treks during the filming of his Elbrus episode.

Difficulty Level

Daily hikes with 15 kg backpacks. No technical skills needed. A support team assists along the way.

Accommodations

Hotel 3*, tents on the route (double accommodation).

Food

Full board during the trek, with a cook included.

What Will You Do?

  • ↗
    Swim in a waterfall, taste mineral springs, cross a glacier, and see Caucasian rhododendrons.
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    You’ll learn basic mountaineering skills and cross a rushing mountain river using fixed cables.
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    We’ll climb Mount Paton and enjoy its breathtaking 360° panoramic view.
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    Finally, we’ll climb Elbrus, the highest mountain in Europe and Russia, and both of its summits if weather and pace allow.

Description by Day

day 1. Arrival

If you’re arriving via Tbilisi (Georgia), please plan to arrive one day earlier. If you’re arriving at Mineralnye Vody, we’ll meet you at the airport at any time of day or night. Transfer to our local office, where you’ll meet your guide, check your personal equipment, and receive any missing gear. Overnight at a 3-star hotel, twin room accommodation.

day 2. Camp 1

After breakfast at the hotel, we drive to the start of the route in the village of Elbrus. The transfer takes about three hours. From there, we hike up through the beautiful Irik Chat Valley, stopping by a natural Narzan spring, a unique sparkling mineral water source. Camp 1 is set in a pine forest next to a river and a small waterfall where you can take a refreshing dip.

day 3. Irik Chat Valley

We start the day with a training session on walking and breathing techniques, a simple but effective way to hike longer with less fatigue. Here the forest gives way to alpine meadows. The trail begins with a steep ascent that leads to a wide open valley where marmots are often seen. We camp on the grass with stunning views of the surrounding rocky peaks and the pass we’ll climb the next day. Elevation gain: 430 m. Overnight altitude: 2,750 m.

day 4. Paton Peak

Today we spend the whole day climbing Paton Peak (3,930 m). This is not only a beautiful route but also an excellent acclimatization climb. The trail begins with a crossing of a fast mountain river using fixed steel cables that we installed here a few years ago. We continue up over rocks to reach the ridge. From the summit, there’s a panoramic view of Mount Elbrus, the Achkeryakol lava flow (a side crater of Elbrus) and the surrounding mountains and valleys. On the descent, we’ll stop for lunch by a mountain lake.

day 5. Irik Chat Pass

We continue ascending through the Irik Chat Valley. The grassy slopes gradually turn into rocky terrain as we walk alongside the glacier’s tongue and climb up to the Irik Chat Pass (3,667 m). This is our Camp 2 for the night, offering two spectacular views: to the south, the valley we came from; to the north, the Djikaochenkez ice plateau, Kalitsky Peak and Mount Elbrus. In the afternoon, your guide will conduct a rope team training session. Elevation gain: 917 m.

day 6. Glacier Crossing

Today we traverse a wide snow-and-ice plateau, a glacier that we’ll cross roped together, as there are many hidden crevasses beneath the snow. We approach the lower rocks of the Achkeryakol lava flow and continue a bit higher to an altitude of 4,000 m. This is Camp 3, our summit camp. In the afternoon, we’ll hold another training session to practice two essential mountaineering skills: walking in crampons on snow and ice, and self-arrest technique with an ice axe on an icy slope. Elevation gain: 400 m.

day 7. Acclimatization to 5,000 m

Our main acclimatization climb. We start early in the morning, carrying only the essentials: snacks, water and a thermos with hot tea. The route leads up to 5,000 m, reaching the edge of Elbrus’s side crater. The trail alternates between rock and snow. You’ll feel the thin air today. It will be tough, but this climb provides excellent altitude adaptation. Elevation gain: 1,000 m.

day 8. Rest Day

A well-deserved rest day before the summit push. We’ll review and practice the mountaineering techniques learned earlier and prepare our backpacks for the climb. We’ll go to bed early to get enough rest before the ascent. If the weather forecast for the coming days looks unfavorable, we may skip the rest day and move directly to the summit attempt.

day 9. Summit Day

We wake up at 22:00 and start our climb to the summit of Mount Elbrus. You’ll be fully equipped, so your backpack will be light. The ascent takes 8–12 hours. After reaching the eastern summit, we descend to the saddle. If time, weather and strength allow, the guide may lead the group to the western summit, though it’s not guaranteed. Descent via the south slope, snowcat pickup at 5,000 m, then cable car to the village. Hotel check-in and certificate ceremony.

day 10. Reserve Day

This extra day may be used for another summit attempt if weather conditions were poor on the previous days. If the weather remains unfavorable for all three days, the group will descend along the same route taken on the ascent. This descent takes the whole day. In either case, by evening you’ll be back in town and comfortably settled in your hotel.

day 11. End of the Program

Breakfast at the hotel. Individual transfer to Tbilisi or Mineralnye Vody Airport (the Tbilisi transfer is not included in the tour price). Please book your return flight for this day in the evening.

Cost

Group Tour

Spot on one
of the planned tours
Booking deposit

Private Tour

For a single participant or for a private
group on any agreed dates

Price for the first (or only) participant

Price for each more
memeber
☑Included
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    Visa invitation (if required) and assistance with flight arrangements
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    Personal airport pickup in Mineralnye Vody (MRV) and return transfer at the end of the program
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    Mountain guiding service: no more than 3 climbers per guide on summit day
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    All transfers as per program, descent by snowcat and cable car
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    Accommodation: 2-3 nights in 3* hotel (twin rooms), tents on route (2 people per tent)
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    Full board on the route, cook service, breakfasts in hotels
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    Porters and horses for transporting food and group equipment
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    Tents, mats, group gear (ropes, gas, kitchen, etc.), first aid kit
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    Emergency oxygen equipment for altitude sickness support
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    National Park entry fee and registration with Rescue Service
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    Certificate of successful Elbrus climb with online verification
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    Official Elbrus Climb badge issued by the Russian Mountaineering Federation
×Not included
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    Flights to Tbilisi (TBS) or Mineralnye Vody (MRV)
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    Lunches and dinners in city or village restaurants
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    Transfer from Tbilisi (if arriving there)
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    Personal gear and clothing: available for rent at our office
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    Mountaineering insurance for all tour days (mandatory)

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